Trans North America 2000

 

The Trans North America 2000 was to trip for to see the Rockies up close. The adventure started in Tucson (Arizona) and ended in Anchorage (Alaska) It was a very exiting experience that lasted 38 days and that brought me, for 7600 Km. (4750 Ml.), trough the most amazing mountain range in North America 
 
Breath-taking and stunning encounters with lots of wild life (among other animals I encountered up to 60 bears) and views of glaciers, lakes, mountains, rivers,..., together with great experiences and sometimes tough and extreme weather conditions were the every day breeze. The fact of doing bivouac, letting the stars caressingly close my eyes every single night, and the fact of traveling alone were such amazing experiences.
 The Route 
 For the details of the adventure click on the map (PDF). 

 

The Preparation

 Siw Annie the day before I started the adventure  
Before I met Siw Annie, my wife, I already had in mind the idea of a bicycle trip at the American continent, from Ushuaia (Argentina) to Barrow (Alaska)

 Time went by, when Siw Annie and I, already married, got to talk about the idea of being transfer to America. My cycling adventure a cross the American continent was being form. A year since our transfer to the US and I began to seek for a few months to be able to escape from my studies. The trip almost had a date. Would not be from Ushuaia to Barrow, but a route from Tucson, where we live, in Arizona, to Anchorage, in Alaska, among the Rocky Mountains. After all, it wasn’t that bad!

 Tucson, Arizona 

Finally, with Siw Annie still not very sure of what I intended to do; I began to take serious the preparation of my adventure. I knew for experience that these kind of trips, no matter how much they are planned, they always end completely different, so I did not spend much time calculating routes, but reading about the places where I would be cycling.
 
Siw Annie was worried mostly about sure encounters with wild life and cold weather. Ones the adventure ended I did verify that about cold weather she was right and about wild life too, even though animals ended being no harm for me.
 
The day arrived. Siw Annie said good-bye in two occasions, at home and at the other side of Tucson, as she was on her way to Phoenix for work.
 Tucson, Arizona 

 

Arizona

 The adventure's t-shirt  

A republic of contrasts, with desert on the south and deep forests on the north, that surprised me on the first days with its typical southern dry heat.

The most beautiful roads on the itinerary, in Arizona, and no doubt about it, were 60 and 77 from Seneca to Carrizo, especially crossing Salt River Canyon, in which …what an impressive view I found and what a speed going down to the bottom of the canyon... 94 kilometers per hour! And what a hard uphill... and what a heat too! On the radio I heard that today temperatures exceeded 40º!
 
Arizona is a tough and full of surprises state. I did find so already, as on the first morning, a small snake had been taken the liberty of seeking refuge under my tent; to mention that the little creature was far more frightened than I. But far better was next day right after dark, pedaling way from Globe, as I witnessed the majesty of an enormous puma quickly and gently crossing the road right before my eyes, just ten meters away from me. What an incredible vision! It crossed over the road without a single sound, only the breeze of the night and my heartbeat witnessing such a beautiful scene. This adventure was beginning to give its fruits.
 
Arizona is, without any doubt, one of the most beautiful American states. This trip also gave me the opportunity to see the vast plains of the St. Johns’ area; the Native American villages spread by all its geography, especially at the Apache, San Carlos and Fort Apache reservations, the remains of the white man’s conquest and the deep forests of the Show Low area.

 What a beauty, yes! But... what a hill and what a hot day!!!!  

 

New Mexico

 Entering New Mexico 

My few miles in this state, from 53 towards 602 and later towards 666 crossing the Native American reservations of the Zuni and Navajo Pueblos, were not so fun, due of the strong wind working against me.

Around Shiprock many Native American doing auto stop, most of them clearly drunk. Damn it! I missed the party that sure took place in the red dusty plains!

Shiprock is also famous by its 450 meters natural monolith named with the same name as the town. Navajo legends relate Rock Wing, as they name it, with the home of two monstrous birds that a local Native American hero gave death to or, as other versions relate, converted into eagle and owl, respectively. For the white man, such a monolith represents a mere ship on its way to sea.
 
Being still the beginning of the adventure, too much cycling during way too few days (880 kilometers in 5 days). My as began to need a little pause. Even going against my philosophy of adventure -no comforts, if is not absolutely necessary-… I needed a bed!

 Damn it!!!! 

 

Colorado i una mica de Utah
 Tomahawk Motel, Cortez , Colorado 
At Cortez I took a little rest, by spending the night at a motel. By the way... with Sadam Hussein’s permission... the motel was named Tomahawk.
Ones in New Mexico I started discovering Basque nomenclature (Arriola, Durango...)
From Cortez (1.890 m.) on the way to Lizard Head Pass (3.115 m.) I crossed the San Juan National Forest. There I bumped on to American’s hospitality, as one family invited me to stay overnight at their place to have a proper rest.
 Also, in Colorado discovered a worth mentioning road, the 141 from Naturita to Whitewater, a beautiful little road surrounded by craggy red walls.
 San Juan Nationa Forest, Colorado 
 Enjoying a wonderful day and pedaling  
 It was worth it!!!! 
On 139, after Grand Junction (1.401 m.), also a road worth mentioning with incredible views, I headed to Douglas Pass (2.520 m.)
 
While on this road I found out that not many vehicles passed me anymore, to cycle alone for longer than half an hour was getting more and more frequent.
 
Dinosaur, 5 kilometers from the Utah border on Prehistoric Highway, is a cute little village thanks to its famous Dinosaur National Monument, a very important finding on the paleontology world. This fossilized village is jam-packed with monuments, signs and other artifacts that would surprise the most incredulous tourist.
 
Naples…? But… I thought I was in the U.S. … ha, ha, ha! In addition to Spanish nomenclature and with a lost Basque name, now and then I also cycled by villages with very curious and funny names (Naples, Arriola, Dolores, Lebanon, Rico, Pandora, Naturita, Fruita, Loma, Dinosaur, Catalina, Mammoth, Concho...)
 
191, from Vernal (Utah) to Rock Springs (Wyoming), is beautiful road that has such an incredible views of the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.

 Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area 

 

Wyoming
 Rock Springs, Wyoming 
In Rock Springs, a beautiful city, I met a Colorado gas plant worker. If something is for sure is that Americans are not as crazy as European news broadcast presents them… or maybe, so far I have been way too lucky? In Rock Springs I rested at a good Samaritan ’s home, to follow, next day, to the close by Bridger-Teton National Forest and Yellowstone National Park.

These days, thanks to the many vestiges, that I come across, from the conquest of the west, I realize the tough traveling conditions that the pioneer new comers faced, no roads, inclemency of the weather, not always hospitality from native American (to also point out that the “Conquistadores” neither were “so nice” to the first nation) These first pioneer moved about 10 kilometers each day… if any at all. They really were the adventurers!

 The Old West 
 Jackson's center, Wyoming 
Jackson, well kwon by its winter invasion of Californians armed with skies, disappointed me. Way too commercial, even though very pretty looking, houses and walking paths build out of wood, with a very accurate decoration gives to this city a very snob flavor, mixed with a tangible culchie breeze. Rain shows up to welcome me at Jackson Hole, nick name for the valley where Jackson is at, due that it’s situated surrounded by real high mountains.

What a cold temperature! At night I decide to plant the almost new tent, just perhaps. Well into the night, under canvas, I hear little drops knocking. It’s raining again, I am tired and sleepy and so I try to ignore it all. Soon I discover that this first used tent, due that I always prefer to sleep under the stars, is not impermeable. After a while the tent start’s to tilt and … what a cold temperature! Finally I decide to come out and right in front of me I discover the answer to it all… it’s snowing quite a lot!
 On my way to Moose, Wyoming 
 Few days I have been as cold as today, pedaling to Moose, Wyoming 
As fast as I can I pick up all my stuff and, as Jackson is far, start looking for a house to get away from the falling snow. Luckily, after an hour of hard and horrible cycling, “completely frozen”, under the snow fall, I get to find a little apartment complex that seems to be partially empty. And lucky I am… on a side there are washing and drying machines, I am out of trouble! … for now. What a night!
 
On my way to Eden, the temperature keeps on dropping and some annoying wind on my face makes it “just perfect”!

But this is not all, next morning I keep route towards Yellowstone National Park when I find out in Moose that due of the accumulated snow the park gate is closed.
 Breath taking view of the Teton mountains 
About the Bridger-Teton National Forest, impressive! I could see the Teton’s through a brief opening on the clouds. This is a beautiful place on earth, but I still think that it could be better with out all the Californian “invaders”.
 West Yellowstone, Montana 

Well, so even snowing I get back at Jackson to cross the Teton Pass (2.570 m.) and then, after a tremendously hard and awful cycling day... maybe my worst ever, 250 km., mostly on Idaho, until I get, completely exhausted well in the night, to West Yellowstone, where I fall asleep out in the open. This is turning to a real tough tour! Either I take it easier or I will have to take easier routes.

 The toughest days of the adventure  
 The famous Old Faithful geyser 
By the way, Yellowstone National Park is real beautiful, but... what a cold temperatures! The photo camera has gotten water inside and now the zoom is literally frozen; from this day on it stop working normally… so no tremendously planed picture to the Old Faithful, just some few postcards did the trick. Good enough that I did have the chance to see it on its entire splendor. I can right that I was there frizzing my bones and all whacked-dead and it really was worth! Back in Yellowstone I took a rest at the IMAX seeing the, of course, Yellowstone movie, it was great, but I still prefer the Grand Canyon movie.

Montana
What a cold temperature that still was at this state, but not all was bad, as I had real wonderful and incredible miles at The Treasure State.

On my way to Canada, on 287, at 1959 Earthquake Area locals told me, while getting some supplies, the amazing and sad evens that some years ago took place right here. Still sings of what have had occurred are easily seeing.

Due of the earthquake, the dam, where most of the damage happened, broke so furiously that part of the mountain literally came down. The new dam that can be seeing today is the result of the damage. The land sank 10 meters on the low side and came up 10 more meters on the opposite side.
 Picture taken on 1959 at Habgen Lake, Montana 
 Habgen Lake, Montana, 3 years ago 

The worse of all was that where the mountain came down there was a Campground. Lots perished and still buried under the same. 287 is today on top of the all mess, my body chilled while pedaling on top of the campground area. Today a plaque reminds everyone of the tragedy, but the proves of the catastrophe are still visible everywhere, at the Hebgen Lake.

Close by Ennis happened amazing events to me. A man that slows down his truck parallel to me and then asks if I wanted a lift to Ennis, as there is work on the road and is all muddy. I did accept his generosity, as I wanted to call Siw Annie, now working in Scotland.

After talking to Siw Annie, I head to the supermarket for some provisions, where something unexpected again happened to me. On the speakers they call my name, -But I don’t know any one here! … is my reaction. Was a friend of the good Samaritan that picked me up on the road, she offers me a place to stay for the night and a nice meal. What a hospitality! Time to properly rest from all the cold, finally!

But these were not all the surprises, as the kind woman offers me her house to rest and then leaves for work. Then, when back at night, we both drive over to the wife of the good Samaritan on the road, where we eat a real nice meal and then they give me a birthday present, as today actually is my birthday, wow! I didn’t remember! They gave me a T-shirt from Ennis that I keep as a treasure.
 
Montanans, what an incredible people!

 Suburbs of Ennis, Montana 

 

 Downhill from the Glacier National Park's entrance, Montana 

 
Next day, bock on route and still in Montana, by the little village of Conrad, I found more hospitality, from a photographer and his wife, a teacher at the local school. Coincidences of life made that their daughter was in Salamanca studying Spanish and that made them connect even more with me.
 

Further north, I’d discover the Blackfeet Native American Reservation. As I’ve got informed in Conrad, the villages at the reservation look very dirty, garbage on the streets and every where and drunk Native Americans wondering about. I’d also get told about the Blackfeet Native not being very friendly with the “white man” and being quite violent too.

 

 

Alberta and the British Columbia
 Entering Mount Robson Park, British Columbia 

By the Native American reservation, I’d have strength to reach, up the mountain, Glacier National Park’s entrance. The pedal was worth. A forest guard stopped me on my clime, as it was impossible to keep on cycling further up, as snow packed the all road. This road it’s worth being mentioned, as it was one of the nicest of the adventure.

Ones at the border, Border Patrol, from both sides, did check my visa and passport and right after, on my way out the check point… snow storm and what a huge one! Thanks to a couple on their way to Anchorage I’ve got a ride all the way to Calgary, a beautiful city worth mentioning and worth pointing out its rodeo… The Stampede!

Next day, with better meteorology, I crossed the national parks of Banff, Jasper and Mount Robson. The road crossing Jasper National Park is another of the ones that I liked the most of the all trip.

 On 16, before Mc. Bride, British Columbia 
The most incredible sensations of the trip were cold, solitude, the amazing beauty of the wonderful and pretty places along the route, the hospitality of the Americans, and not really of the Canadians, as they are real reserve people, and, of course, the wild life. The sensation of looking strait to the eyes of a grizzly is incredible and “frizzes” your blood and scares as nothing in this world. No member of any of the toughest gangs that we find today in the big metropolis will honestly assure me that will not be scared when looking strait in to the eyes of a grizzly, in the middle of no where and far from anywhere.
 
I also have to write that from the 50 black bear and the 10 grizzly that I’d encounter, just one did not take off and stayed staring at me. Also to write that not just bear can be dangerous, elk, among other creatures, also can be so, and Canada and Alaska have plenty of them.
 
What impressed me the most about this province, British Columbia, is its enormity, it took me nine days to cross it.

 The only bear that did not take off running. Maybe was a bit daring to take a picture, but it was worth! Some kilometers passed Meziadin Lake, British Columbia 
 Entering the Yukon Territory, from Cassiar Hightway 
Another road that impressed me quite a lot was 37, from New Hazelton until Watson Lake. There were days that I did not meet more than a couple of guys and some few cars and trucks. By the way, truck drivers, so dangerous that they look on the road, I can write that in the North American Continent they are the ones that drive the better and the ones that respect us, cyclist, the most. From these lines I would like to thank them for all the cooperation and respect that they did show, on the road, with me.

 

Yukon Territory
Watson Lake is one of the “most stop” places on the route, a village full of tourist from everywhere.
 
Not just at the British Columbia, but also at the Yukon Territory, where real cold and had snow storms, hail, frost on the road, rain, front strong wind, solitude and not-pavement roads, all blended with the bittersweet taste of being cycling on the most beautiful, wild and incredible roads on earth.
 
Teslin is a small village, which has a very cool metal bridge… especially if you cycle on it, as you can clearly see through it and all the way down to the river.
 Teslin, Yukon Territory 
 Whitehorse, Yukon Territory 
By the way, in Canada and in some U.S. states is obligatory to stop for anyone on the road, as the weather can be very tough. I did find my self needing some help, a couple of times, in Canada, as I was exhausted, with tummy ache and being raining or even swooning and… not every one did stop, not the first, not the second… not until about 10 cars… (about 2 hours or more translated in time), a prove of how tremendously reserve are Canadians.

 

Alaska
 On the way to Koidern, Yukon Territory 
What an “ecstasy” to get to Alaska. This trip had the particularity of being quite tough, due of the extreme weather conditions and mileage.
 
The Alaskan part of the trip was real enjoyable, provably due that the adventure was about to finish. Worth pointing out Tok and the road 1, from Glennallen to Palmer.
 Entering Alaska, Beaver Creek 
Eureka, Alaska.
My arrival to Anchorage wasn’t very spectacular, as no one was there for to receive me and due of so many miles done.
 
I did get to Anchorage well in to the night. Back in time there were, just cycling, 6.833 kilometers, with an average of 180 kilometers per day, bivouac sleeping and having pedaled most of the route alone. During the trip I just met two couples cycling and a lonely one.
 
There were nights that I did sleep for longer than 12 hours... I think that I’d need it.
 A dream come through... Anchorage, Alaska! 
 The Reints Family 
Next day, I’d pick up my plane ticked back to Tucson and right after I’d contact the Reints, a family friends with the nice Ennis, Montana, people. I’d stay with them for three days, that helped me rest from all the miles on my legs. The Reints, a couple with two wonderful daughters, did treat me as “royalty”.
 
During my trip I just did meet wonderful people, lived incredible experiences and enjoyed wonderful extreme spectacular places.

Ones seeing Siw Annie again, back from her Scottish work-trip, at the Tucson airport, one of her first comments was... “You took 38 days to get to Alaska and ... you’ve got back in less than 12 hours?” Ha, ha, ha! These Norwegian have such a humor...